Tar Heel Travels
The
Swag
Lofty
mountain peaks shelter a quaint inn with Four Star service
By Bill F. Hensley
Deener
and Dan Matthews never tire of the awesome scenery from their front
porch or the cool, steady breezes off nearby Hemphill Bald that air
conditions their mountain hideaway. As they rock slowly in handmade
rocking chairs, they gaze contentedly at the waves of towering ridges
that are the Great Smokies to the left, the peaceful Jonathan Creek
Valley ahead, and Cold Mountain, infamous and renowned, on the right.
From their comfortable
vantage point, four of North Carolina’s highest mountain ranges are
visible, including the Smokies, the Plott Balsams, the Richland
Balsams and the Black Mountains. The Divide Trail, a beaten path for
Cherokee Indians and settlers for more than 200 years, passes just
behind. What can’t be seen, however, are the history, the heritage
and the lore of this mystical “land of the sky.”
This is The Swag, a secluded
country inn that, by all accounts, is the loftiest inn east of the
Rockies, sitting nearly a mile high on a dip between two lofty peaks
that is called a “swag” by mountain folk. The spectacular setting
occupies 250 pristine acres 13 miles north of Waynesville in Haywood
County. A mile of the property borders the Great Smokies Mountains
National Park.
The Matthews — Dan is from
Canton, N.C. — bought the property in 1969. It was their summer
home, and it was also a retreat for Episcopal clergy and laymen, since
Dan is an Episcopal priest who has been rector of Trinity Church on
Wall Street in New York City for 15 years.
Because of its immense
popularity with everyone who set foot on the treasured ground, The
Swag was converted into an inn in 1982.
Since then, it has built an enviable and well-deserved
reputation — it’s rated Four Stars by Mobil and is one of only
five North Carolina inns to be a member of
“Classic Inns of the South.” (The others are the Greystone
Inn at Lake Toxaway, Pine Crest at Tryon, Richmond Hill in Asheville
and the Fearrington House in Pittsboro.)
“The Swag is truly a
classic country inn in every sense,” says Alice Aumen, an owner of
nearby Cataloochee Ranch, a friendly competitor.
“It is a showplace for gracious living and has earned its
many accolades from the public and the travel media.”
The inn offers 15 luxurious
and distinctive accommodations that are perhaps best described as
“rustic elegance.” There are seven rooms in the main house, three
in the Chestnut House, and five guest cabins that include sitting
rooms, fireplaces and private porches. The rooms are beautifully
decorated with country antique furnishings, feather beds, homemade
quilts, hewn-log walls and original artwork. Modern amenities include
lounging robes, CD players and coffee makers.
Meals are four- or
five-course and feature a variety of gourmet specialties that have
earned the inn numerous awards from culinary experts. Hearty
country-style breakfasts, sumptuous lunches — including noonday
picnics as a part of nature walks — and delicious four-course
dinners are provided by highly-qualified chefs. “The Swag is
well-known for its fine food and that is a large part of our
tradition,” says Deener Matthews, known to visitors by her nickname.
“We work hard to provide unusually good cuisine.”
Although eating and sleeping
are reasons enough to come to The Swag, guests enjoy a variety of
activities that enhance the experience.
There are numerous hiking trails throughout the forested hills
and lush meadows that adjoin the property and wildlife is abundant
with deer, black bears, elk, wild boar, foxes and wildcats roaming the
rugged terrain. More than a thousand types of flowering plants and a
hundred varieties of trees dot the scented forests.
Birdwatchers rejoice at the
many species that can be spotted. On site, there is a racquetball
court, croquet, horseshoes, badminton, an outdoor spa, sauna, a
hammock for two, fully-stocked book and video libraries, and secluded
hideaways for two with hammocks and loveseats.
In the valley below, there
is golf, tennis, horseback riding, rafting, cycling and fishing, and
guests may drive the nearby Blue Ridge Parkway to Asheville and its
famed Biltmore House or to Cherokee and the many attractions on this
Indian reservation.
Throughout the season, which
runs from May through mid-November, The Swag offers special
entertainment programs and lectures by authors, artists and
naturalists. “Our guests have coined a term called Swag Therapy,”
says Deener, “which refers to the peaceful lifestyle here, the
relaxing, rejuvenating atmosphere that restores mind and body. Life
here is easy and unhurried, the way it should be.”
Rates, which include three
mails daily for a couple, start at $265 during the week and $325 on
weekends. For more information, call 800-789-7672.
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